This week we dive into a rather advanced pour paint project, but one that packs a huge punch! If you’re looking for a way to update your kitchen for a reasonable price, transforming your countertops with pour paint is a creative way to make a big splash without breaking the bank. Do-it-yourself countertop paint is not the cheapest project on our list, but it is one of the most inexpensive ways to get “new” counters. You could always use a basic countertop refinishing kit or some Rust-oleum countertop coating, but we’re going for something with a bit more pizazz! We’ll be creating a faux marble countertop with nothing but acrylic paint, basic painting supplies, and epoxy resin. Let’s go!
The Basics
Redoing your own countertops is a scary DIY project for some. However, the best aspect of acrylic paint is that it’s virtually mess-up-free. You can literally just scrape it off and start over in most cases. This project will take substantial prep time, attention to detail, and more than a little patience, so don’t rush it. Be patient with the process and with yourself. It may take some trial and error to get the pattern that you want.
We’re essentially going to be doing a Dutch Pour. That means you’ll be using air (a hairdryer or drinking straw) to move paint around until you achieve the pattern you want. It’s not all that difficult, but moving too fast can result in unwanted patterns, air bubbles in your paint, and unnecessary redos, so again, go slow! We highly recommend practicing on a spare piece of plywood or scrap wood before attempting the process on your counters.
Materials
- White base coat: I recommend using metallic or pearl paint to mimic the look of quartz. Try Modern Master Pearl White Metallic Paint.
- Three shades of gray: I recommend utilizing one paint swatch (like Sherwin Williams 244-C) and choosing the lightest, middle, and darkest tones of that shade. In the case of SW 244– that would be Repose Gray, Dovetail, and Black Fox. You can also mix your own by buying a medium gray paint and adding a bit of black and a bit of white to create three tones.
- Floetrol
- Metal or plastic mixing bins
- Stir sticks
- Plastic sheeting and painter’s tape
- Ventilator mask
- Clear epoxy resin
- Hair dryer with concentrator nozzle, drinking straws
Prepping Your Counter
The first step is the most important in this project, and it may vary slightly depending on what countertop surface you’re aiming to cover. I’m going to go out on a limb here and assume that most of you are aiming to cover a cheaper laminate in a color or pattern that’s outdated, tile, or a butcher block. That’s actually a perk for this project, as they are the easiest to refinish. The process is the same if you’re looking to cover stone or granite though.
Pro Tip: for this process, you must keep your workspace clean throughout the stages. You’ll need a shop vac or strong vacuum to clear away dust, and you’ll need to keep the windows open for ventilation. You may need to take a few hours between steps to let the dust settle and reclean. This is going to take a couple of days.
Step 1: Tape and Sand
Using some sturdy masking tape or painter’s tape, you’ll need to tape your countertops off around the top edge. We also suggest applying a strip of plastic sheeting to the floor under your countertops. With 100-120 grit sandpaper, give your countertops a light sanding. You’re not trying to take off the finish here, but just give it a bit of grip. After a quick sand with the rough paper, go over it quickly with some 440 grit to smooth out any scrapes. Clean thoroughly. Allow the dust to settle, and then clean again!
Step 2: Prime
Priming is essential here. You need something for your acrylic paint artwork to stick to. Acrylic isn’t the strongest adhering of paint, so you want to make sure you give it the best chance of success. If working over natural stone, consider Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy Undercoat. Otherwise, any primer, like Zinsser will work, as long as it is not an oil-based primer. Use a smooth roller to coat your counter and let them dry thoroughly. Once dry, sand lightly with your 440-grit sandpaper to get out any roller marks, and clean your surface until it’s dust-free.
It’s go time!
Alright, it’s time to bite the bullet. There are actually two ways you can go about applying paint to your counters—
Option 1: Mix your base coat color with epoxy according to the epoxy directions and pour all at once, then you will add in your medium gray, gold flecks, etc, and work at a decent pace before the epoxy begins to dry. You can use a commercial countertop epoxy kit if you wish to go this route.
Option 2: We’ll use a base coat of paint and get the marble pattern correct, then pour a coat of clear epoxy over the finished product. For true beginners, this second option, though it is an extra step, will likely be easier. This is the method I’m going to expand upon.
Step 1: Mix your paints
Mix your white acrylic paint (or preferred base coat color) with Floetrol to a smooth consistency in a large plastic cup or pouring container. Mix thoroughly but not vigorously. You don’t want to introduce excess air. Typically, you want the consistency of warm honey.
The paint should flow across the countertop without much prompting, but you don’t want it so thin that it leaves gaps or holes. It’s okay if you have to coax it along a bit. Add your Floetrol slowly until you achieve the desired texture. For more tips on getting the perfect flow, check out “How to Thin Paint for Acrylic Pouring.”
In separate containers, you’ll want to do the same with your accent colors. I suggest making large quantities in the beginning and covering them if you need to, that way you keep the same color and consistency throughout your project. Mix all your paints now and have them handy. Once the base coat is poured, you’ll need to work quickly.
Step 2: Base Coat
Pour your base coat onto the countertop and allow it to flow. Try to complete larger sections at once—for instance, from the sink to the side wall, or the entire island. Allow the paint to run over the sides of your countertop. Use your finger or a small paintbrush to ensure that the edges are adequately covered.
Step 3: Marble Details
Now, it’s time for the marbling. I recommend starting with the lighter of your accent colors. These have the least contrast and give you a chance to practice your pour technique with the least noticeable color. Pour in thin waves that mimic the natural flow of marble. You may consider having an inspiration piece taped up in front of you so you can easily replicate the shapes.
Use a hairdryer with a concentrator nozzle on low speed and cold temperature to blow out your veins. For more detailed work, you can lightly blow through a straw. When you’re happy with the light colors, add a few veins of darker grey or black using the same technique. If you’d like sparkle in your cabinets, I’d recommend adding it in with the dark veins for a natural look.
Move to the next section and keep going, assuring that any overlapping sections are attended to promptly. Don’t forget to marble your edges as well. Once you’re happy with your look, let it dry for 24 hours. Do a thorough examination and make sure you don’t see any air bubbles starting to form. If you do, take a hot blow dryer on a low setting or a blow torch and pass over the area at least 6 inches away to pop the bubbles.
The Final Coat
You’re almost there! It’s time for the grand finale, and if you’re less than impressed with your results thus far, don’t worry! Adding the high glossy epoxy resin top coat brings out all the details of your hard work and makes it look rich and full of depth.
Start by mixing your epoxy resin according to the directions on the bottle. Ensure that you have as much ventilation as possible. Epoxy is full of volatile organic compounds, so you’ll want to wear a ventilator mask as well. Ensure that your freshly painted countertops are clean and dust-free.
Once you’ve completed the prep, simply pour the epoxy over your surface. The resin will free-flow and cover on its own, so don’t overwork it. Use a stir stick to ensure that all your edges are completely covered. If you see gaps or bubbles, add a bit more resin to those low areas.
After it has dried for a few minutes, use a clean trowel or stir stick to remove drips from the edges of your counters. You may need to do this a couple of times. Allow the resin to dry for at least 72 hours before placing anything on top of it. You may need to sand the under edges to remove the last of the drips.
Caring For Your Epoxy Counters
Epoxy is a cheap solution, and it won’t last forever! You must realize this solution is likely a temporary one. Epoxy counters can stain, and they can scratch. Use non-abrasive materials like soap and water for daily cleaning. You can use mineral oil to add shine about once a month but don’t overdo it. Too much can cause a hazy residue to form on your counters.
Closing Thoughts on DIY Epoxy Countertops
Creating your own acrylic paint counter is possible! Just remember to take your time, and practice first on some scrap wood. Do-it-yourself countertop paint is definitely an advanced pour project. You don’t want this to be your first go with a Dutch pour, but with a little experimentation, you can create something magnificent.
As stated above, there are all-in-one epoxy paint refinishing kits that you can purchase. These kits allow you to skip the step of pre-painting and utilize colored epoxy to which you’ll add gold flecks and darker veins. If you have some experience with epoxy, this would be a faster and more efficient way to go. Either way, you get a stunning countertop for a few hundred dollars, rather than thousands.
So, what do you think? Are DIY countertops something you’re going to try? Let us know in the comments!
For more incredible acrylic paint ideas, check out our full collection of Non-Canvas Pouring projects.
Until next time…go forth and pour!
